When the Railway reached George, after years of delay, the entire town turned out to watch the first train puff into the station. During the festivities, the archdeacon observed that its arrival would be like the kiss of the handsome prince that woke the Sleeping Beauty. Perhaps he was right — there is certainly a fairy-tale quality in a journey by steam train through this fascinating part of the southern Cape.

The ‘lakes route’ between George and Knysna is one of the last stretches of rail in the country still traversed regularly by a steam locomotive, and the ‘Outeniqua Choo-choo’ that works this line is known to steam enthusiasts worldwide.

The choo-choo makes no special concessions for visitors — it is a goods train with usually just a single passenger coach attached at the end. The train leaves George early in the morning and arrives in Knysna well before midday — stopping on the way at a host of quaint little places, such as Bleshoender (bald chicken) and Mielierug (mielie ridge). (Passengers may board and disembark at any of the stations along the line.) After a leisurely lunch break in Knysna, the train sets off along the same route+ back to George — arriving home in mid-afternoon.

A hidden treasure chest

From George station, the line runs along the valley of the Meul (Mill) River, with views down to the sea at Ballot’s Bay — where a treasure chest is said to lie wedged in the rocks awaiting recovery. The first stop is Victoria Bay, immediately above the tiny beach. This is a popular surfing spot, with a small fishing jetty and a children’s paddling pool.

Soon after Victoria Bay the train enters a pair of tunnels, then emerges onto a bridge across the mouth of the Kaaimans River. The railings on the bridge are below the height of the carriage windows, and the train seems to be floating high above the river. From the bridge there are superb views, both up the river and out to sea. Soon afterwards there is a magnificent view on your right over the Wilderness beach, stretching away far into the distance.

Island of the camel’s hump

The line descends gradually to the pretty Wilderness station, then crosses the mouth of the Touw River on an iron bridge. Soon after this it crosses the Touw a second time and passes (on your right) a small rounded hill known as Fairy Knowe.

You cross the Touw River a third time, on a combined road and rail bridge, then travel alongside the Serpentine — a meandering waterway that links the Touw River to Lower Langvlei, also known as Island Lake. As you pass the lake you will see the island that gives it this name, known as Dromedaris Island (dromedary island) because of its likeness to a camel’s hump.

Meandering among the lakes

A narrow canal links Lower Langvlei to Upper Langvlei, which is linked in its turn to Rondevlei by yet another canal. The line passes along the northern shores of these lakes, offering tranquil views of small-scale farming scenes, then turns southeast, through pine forest, and runs between Rondevlei and Swartvlei.

Swartvlei is by far the largest of the lakes in the region. The line runs along its shore, then crosses it at its southern end, shortly before arriving at Sedgefield. After Sedgefield you travel the full length of Groenvlei, the only freshwater lake in the region, then climb through forest, and wind down steeply into the vivid green of the Goukamma valley.

The climb out of the Goukamma valley involves a series of loops — leading to Keytersnek. After this you begin to catch glimpses of Knysna Lagoon. The train stops at Belvidere, and again on the very edge of the lagoon at Brenton. After skirting the western shore it then swings out over the water and crosses the lagoon on a long wooden bridge, with Knysna station waiting at the far end

In holiday seasons the workaday choo-choo is sometimes replaced by Tootsie’, a glamorous passenger train for the tourist and the enthusiast — travelling a longer route from Mossel Bay to Knysna..